It’s Wednesday, just before noon. The air is filled with the scent of fresh bread, mingling with the chatter of voices and the clatter of crates between fruit and flower stalls. Grit Ranft moves purposefully, familiar with the rhythm of the Viktualienmarkt. This 56-year-old, a resident of the Bavarian metropolis for 25 years, is more than just an ordinary inhabitant. She knows Munich down to its most hidden corners, having explored and come to appreciate every district. In 2014, the business graduate embarked on a career change, training to become an official city guide. Since then, she has discovered countless new places and collected her very own secret spots, some of which she now shares with our editorial team.
From Market Bustle to Wild Delights
Ranft pauses in front of a small stand in the butcher’s row. Amidst all the classics of the Viktualienmarkt, the wild game butcher ‘Wilde Zeiten’ appears almost unassuming. “I shop here privately too,” she says. Inside, it’s cramped, familiar; everyone knows each other. “It’s always nice here,” Ranft notes. Many regular customers stop by, sometimes just for a chat. Only a handful of employees work behind the counter. What makes it special: only wild meat from their own and regional hunting is sold – deer, venison, chamois, or wild boar. No factory farming, no breeding. “Here, no piece looks like the same,” explains owner Sabine Kroiß. Together with her brother Christian, she runs the business; he is a chef and freshly prepares wild game dishes like goulash or bolognese, sold in jars. For a quick treat, there are wild game patties or wild liver cheese rolls to go. “The stand differs significantly from classic butcher shops,” Ranft explains, emphasizing the central role of animal welfare, which she particularly appreciates. Currently, the ‘Winterzauber’ (Winter Magic) is taking place at the Viktualienmarkt: several stands participate with seasonal offers, partly extended opening hours, and a joint raffle – ‘Wilde Zeiten’ is also part of it.
Munich’s Hidden Gem: Hotterstraße
Then, the journey continues. Out of the butcher’s row, past the hubbub of voices, along the bustling activity of the Viktualienmarkt. The city guide walks with purpose, turns, and crosses the street. With every step, it grows quieter. Suddenly, you find yourself in a different city – or at least it feels that way. Hotterstraße is an inconspicuous, narrow connection between Färbergraben and Hackenstraße, right in the heart of the Old Town, barely 160 meters long – it forms the focus of Ranft’s insider tip tour. “No one knows it,” the 56-year-old says, shaking her head. Indeed, there’s surprisingly little activity on the narrow street. Compared to the usual hustle and bustle of Munich’s city center, you encounter hardly any people here – it feels too quiet for a metropolis. However, the street has a very special feature: behind the Hirmer multi-storey car park, the view opens up – and there they rise, very close, without barriers or crowds: the towers of the Frauenkirche. A view that you won’t find anywhere else. “The view here is beautiful,” Ranft enthuses. Especially in the evening hours, the church unfolds its effect: “When it’s dark, it looks particularly imposing.”
Urban Art That Few Know
But the view is by no means the only insider tip on Hotterstraße. Among the rather inconspicuous houses, where mainly medical practices, agencies, and law firms are located, one building immediately stands out: a striking, square building with a black facade. In large white letters, ‘MUCA’ glows, and the side wall is covered in graffiti. “Many people don’t even know this,” Ranft says. The Museum of Urban and Contemporary Art is located in a former substation; opposite is the so-called ‘MUCA Giant Wall,’ where street art is regularly created. An adjacent air-raid bunker from the Second World War has also been transformed into an exhibition space for contemporary art. “Many internationally renowned artists have already worked here,” Ranft explains – right in the middle of the Old Town, almost unnoticed. The collection comprises over 1200 works, including pieces by Banksy, Keith Haring, or Andy Warhol. It is complemented by changing exhibitions. Despite its international renown, few visitors stray here: the museum is almost empty. Currently, the works of the Portuguese artist Vhils are on display. His style is unmistakable: he removes layers from surfaces of walls, billboards, or industrial materials, revealing hidden stories. Already in the first room, colorful portraits, intricately worked out from several layers of old posters, impress. Particularly striking is a monumental mural in the main hall, showing a face so precisely that every wrinkle and shadow is recognizable. “It’s actually crazy to have something like this almost to yourself in the middle of the Old Town,” Ranft says.
Culinary Gems Just Around the Corner
Right next to MUCA is the restaurant ‘Anne’s’ – in Turkish, it means ‘Mama’s’. The halal establishment invites you to try Turkish cuisine. “I often stop by here after work and grab a bite,” Ranft says. Behind the glass counter, containers with various specialties are lined up, from which you can create your individual dish. Not even 50 meters further, at the end of Hotterstraße, is the patisserie ‘Isabella’, which specializes in gluten-free delicacies. According to the website, owner Isabella was diagnosed with celiac disease, a gluten intolerance, in 2009. For the Italian, who has a great passion for enjoyable food, this was initially a shock. Not only was it challenging to switch to a gluten-free diet at home – finding suitable options outside was also almost impossible at the time. This led to the idea for her own café, which today primarily offers gluten- and allergen-free treats. It is precisely these places – unnoticeable at first glance – that make Hotterstraße unique. All these discoveries are just a few steps away from each other. And yet, very few people find their way here. “We are not even 200 meters from the lively Sendlinger Straße,” emphasizes the 56-year-old. “It’s really great here – people should know about it.” You just have to turn once wrong – or rather, right. Between historic buildings, modern museums, and hidden culinary hotspots, the street shows that even in the middle of the city, places full of surprises await. For Ranft, it’s clear: anyone who comes here will discover Munich from a whole new perspective.
Source: Own research, muca.eu, isabella-pattisserie.de
