The scent of freshly baked bread and simmering sauces usually conjures images of home, of a grandmother’s kitchen filled with warmth and familiar flavors. But in Munich’s Altstadt, at Restaurant Elsa, that comforting aroma now carries a hint of something more: the precision of a Michelin-starred kitchen, the delicate touch of a chef who has honed his craft in the city’s most esteemed culinary temples. This is the new reality brought by Leander Bauer, a chef whose journey from fine dining to a more accessible, yet equally refined, lunch experience is reshaping the city’s gastronomic landscape.
A New Chapter for a Culinary Talent
Leander Bauer, a name synonymous with culinary excellence in Munich, has embarked on a new chapter at Elsa. Having previously graced the kitchens of the renowned Sparkling Bistro under Jürgen Wolfsgruber, Bauer’s move to Elsa was driven by a desire for a more family-friendly schedule. Yet, this shift has by no means diminished his culinary ambition. Instead, it has provided him with a unique canvas to blend his passion for alpine cuisine with a commitment to artisanal craftsmanship, all within the bustling midday rhythm of the Altstadt.
“You should feel like you’re sitting at your grandma’s, eating something delicious, even if the chives are cut at a three-star level,” Bauer explains, perfectly encapsulating his philosophy. This sentiment is palpable in his new lunch menu, designed to cater to both the hurried business lunch and the leisurely multi-course meal.
The Alpine Touch: A Lunch Menu Reimagined
Bauer’s current lunch offerings are a testament to his innovative approach. Starters might include a delicate veal head terrine, fresh matjes, or a vibrant red beet gazpacho with sour cream, horseradish, dill, and an optional smoked trout. These dishes, while seemingly simple, are executed with a finesse that elevates them beyond the ordinary.
For main courses, guests can indulge in a classic Wiener Schnitzel served with parsley potatoes and mushroom cream sauce, or a pan-seared salmon fillet accompanied by a “Fisolenragout” (green bean ragout), citrus cream, and toasted bread. A standout, already hailed as a potential signature dish by Elsa-chef Lucas Kucz, are Bauer’s “Paradeiserknödel” (tomato dumplings) with basil oil, crispy chili, and a side salad. “They are absolutely amazing,” Kucz enthuses, hinting that these tomato dumplings might become a permanent fixture on future menus, which are slated to change every one to two months.
Bauer confirms that the Austrian influences, evident in terms like “Fisolen” and “Paradeiser,” a culinary legacy from his time at Sparkling Bistro, will continue to grace Elsa’s menu. As autumn approaches, diners can anticipate warm soups, braised dishes, chanterelles, and wild game. And for dessert? Bauer has even secured Jürgen Wolfsgruber’s blessing to serve his legendary palatschinken, albeit with a plum compote filling instead of the traditional apricot.
Elsa’s Expanding Universe: A Bavarian Deli on the Horizon
The culinary excitement at Elsa isn’t limited to Bauer’s arrival. Just a few steps away, Lucas Kucz and his head chef Philipp Naase are preparing to unveil the Bavarian Deli Company at Orlandostraße 4, near Platzl. This ambitious project, inspired by Kucz’s time studying in New York, aims to bring the authentic deli experience to Munich, albeit with a distinctly Bavarian twist.
The location’s proximity to Elsa was crucial, as many of the deli’s sandwich components will be prepared in the restaurant’s kitchen. While the concept may be New York-inspired, the fillings are unequivocally Bavarian. Take, for instance, the “Bavarian Birria” (€12.90), featuring pork belly and crackling, sauerkraut, and cucumber relish, served with a pork roast consommé for dipping, reminiscent of its Mexican counterpart. The “Old Town Roast” (€14.90) boasts succulent roast beef with a kick of hot sauce, while the “Leberkas Cordon bleu” (€8.90) offers a playful take on the classic, with two thin slices of Leberkäse breaded with cheese, fried, and served in a sandwich.
A special homage is paid to the late New York culinary icon Anthony Bourdain with a sandwich (€11.90) that features fried mortadella with melted provolone, elevated by the Bavarian Deli Company’s homemade pistachio mayonnaise. These delectable creations are set to debut just in time for Oktoberfest, promising a perfect foundation before indulging in the first Maß of beer.
A Culinary Evolution in Munich’s Heart
The culinary landscape of Munich continues to evolve, with Restaurant Elsa and its forthcoming Bavarian Deli Company leading the charge. With Leander Bauer at the helm of its lunch offerings, bringing his unique blend of alpine tradition and fine-dining precision, and the anticipation building for a truly Bavarian take on the New York deli, the Altstadt is poised to become an even more vibrant destination for food lovers. It’s a testament to the city’s dynamic gastronomic scene, where tradition meets innovation, and every meal tells a story – sometimes, a story as comforting as grandma’s cooking, and sometimes, as exciting as a culinary adventure across continents.
Source: https://www.sueddeutsche.de/muenchen/muenchen-gastro-sandwich-elsa-koch-li.3539926
