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BERLIN – An environmental protection organization based in Berlin has initiated legal action against the ultra-fast fashion retailer Shein. The lawsuit, filed by Deutsche Umwelthilfe (DUH) at the Berlin Regional Court, seeks to legally compel the company to cease the sale of products containing excessive levels of per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances (PFAS), commonly referred to as “forever chemicals.”
Legal action follows safety concerns
The legal move comes after DUH identified children’s jackets sold by the platform that contained PFAS levels significantly exceeding allowable limits. According to laboratory analyses commissioned by the group, nearly 40 percent of 18 tested products would not have been permitted for sale within the European Union.
While Shein has removed the specific items identified in the testing, DUH argues that the company has refused to provide a legally binding undertaking to prevent the future sale of similarly contaminated products. Karoline Borwieck, the attorney representing DUH, stated that the group is seeking a cease-and-desist declaration backed by contractual penalties to mitigate the risk of repeated violations.
“Business model prioritizes volume over safety”
Barbara Metz, executive director of DUH, emphasized the broader implications of the findings. “We have found forever chemicals that are toxic to reproductive health in children’s jackets and repeatedly found other PFAS at levels even a thousand times above the applicable limit values,” Metz said. She added that the core issue is a business model that places volume above consumer safety.
Shein’s response
In a statement provided to the media, Shein expressed reservations regarding the characterization of the dispute by DUH. The retailer maintained that it has already addressed the group’s concerns by conducting a comprehensive review of its German product catalog, strengthening seller requirements for PFAS testing, and enhancing automated screening processes.
“We reject outright DUH’s suggestion that Shein has refused to make commitments,” the company stated. Shein further criticized the environmental group for what it described as “unreasonable demands” and “publicity-driven confrontation,” suggesting that the group’s focus should be on constructive engagement rather than public campaigning.
The case highlights the ongoing regulatory scrutiny facing fast-fashion retailers in Germany, where the government is reportedly preparing new legislation to manage the environmental impact and disposal costs associated with textile products.
Source: Sourcing Journal