The aroma of hops now mingles with the rich scent of freshly prepared Bavarian delicacies, a testament to the quiet revolution unfolding within the historic walls of the Donisl at Marienplatz. It’s a transformation that began in 2021, when restaurateurs Peter Reichert and Franziska Kohlpaintner took the reins of this Munich institution, breathing new life into a place deeply etched into the city’s culinary landscape.
From Humble Beginnings to Culinary Heights
For many long-time Munich residents, the Donisl was once a familiar, if unadorned, presence. A place for a quick bite, perhaps, but not necessarily a destination for gastronomic exploration. That perception is now a thing of the past. Reichert and Kohlpaintner, with their fresh ideas and unwavering commitment to quality, have meticulously re-imagined the Donisl, turning it into a beacon of sophisticated Bavarian dining.
Their philosophy is simple yet profound: embrace fresh, regional ingredients, reinterpret classic Bavarian dishes with a modern twist, and rediscover forgotten culinary gems. Franziska, for instance, fondly recalls the Kirschenmichel (cherry bread pudding) from her childhood, a sweet dish now gracing the menu at 9.50 Euros. To bring their vision to life, they enlisted the talents of Rainer Unglaub, a top-tier chef who now orchestrates a dozen culinary professionals in the Donisl’s bustling kitchen.
The Bavarian DNA: Preserved and Elevated
For over half a year, Unglaub has been at the helm, crafting a menu that he describes as “upscale Bavarian cuisine,” occasionally venturing into Mediterranean influences. His culinary mantra revolves around gentle preparation, regional sourcing, and an unwavering commitment to freshness. The core Bavarian DNA of the Donisl remains intact, but Unglaub challenges conventions. Why not transform a traditional Semmelknödel (bread dumpling) into a carpaccio, served with chanterelles and a light vinaigrette? Or explore variations of veal sweetbreads? All perfectly complemented, perhaps, by a refreshing glass of Münchner Hell (5.20 Euros).
A Stage for Culinary Stars: The “Kulinarium”
Beyond their daily offerings, the Donisl proprietors take immense pride in their “Kulinarium,” a unique platform that showcases guest chefs of exceptional caliber. These culinary luminaries are invited to present their innovative creations, transforming the Donisl into a temporary stage for gastronomic artistry. On June 28th, for instance, Barbara Schlachter Ebert and her son Bastian Ebert from Schlossanger Alp will grace the kitchen. Following them, on July 26th, Christoph Mezger from Bergson-Kraftwerk will share his culinary expertise, promising an unforgettable dining experience.
An Ambiance Transformed: From “Train Station” to “Church”
The Donisl’s transformation extends beyond its culinary offerings. Reichert has meticulously overseen a visual overhaul, subtly refreshing the restaurant’s aesthetic. Genuine hops now adorn the ceilings in the ground and first-floor corridors, replaced annually to ensure their freshness. The ground floor boasts a stone floor, while the upstairs restaurant features elegant oak. These details, though seemingly small, contribute significantly to the overall ambiance.
“We were once told the restaurant looked like a train station,” the proprietors recall with a chuckle. “That’s history; today, it’s cozy.” To achieve this, the lighting has been softened, and a cleverly positioned wall now guides visitors through the space, revealing the magnificent high hall gradually. The overall impression is a harmonious blend of spaciousness and traditional Bavarian “Griabigkeit” – a sense of cozy comfort.
A Place of Belonging: The Tin Mugs of Loyalty
The high-ceilinged hall has even been likened to a “church” by some patrons, a comparison that inspired the addition of a pulpit, generously donated by actress Brigitte Walbrun, known for her role in “Dahoam is dahoam.” This unique feature now serves as a platform for company executives hosting corporate events within the Donisl’s distinctive setting.
Yet, amidst these modern touches, a timeless tradition endures: a wooden wall adorned with beautiful tin mugs, each belonging to a loyal regular. Some of these patrons have been frequenting the Donisl for decades. Reichert explains with a laugh, “You have to earn such a place of honor, so to speak, ‘drink your way into it,’ then the mug gets its place of honor here.” It’s a symbol of enduring loyalty and the deep connection between the Donisl and its community.
More Than Just a Restaurant: A Community Hub
The Donisl is more than just a place to eat; it’s a gathering place, a living testament to Munich’s rich history and evolving culinary scene. With the capacity to host up to 450 guests when fully rented, it has already served as the venue for numerous celebrations and events. The meticulous attention to detail, from the fresh hops to the carefully curated menu, reflects the passion and dedication of Peter Reichert and Franziska Kohlpaintner. They have not only revitalized a restaurant but have also preserved a piece of Munich’s soul, offering a space where tradition meets innovation, and where every meal tells a story.
As the Donisl continues its journey, it stands as a vibrant example of how a historic establishment can adapt and thrive, embracing modernity while honoring its roots. It’s a place where the past and present converge, creating an experience that is both familiar and exciting, a true culinary gem in the heart of Munich.
Source: https://www.tz.de/muenchen/stadt/donisl-in-muenchen-wirtspaar-holt-drei-hauben-koch-fuer-kulinarium-94313452.html
