Stepping into Tulus Lotrek on any given evening, one is immediately enveloped in the world of Max Strohe. The air is thick with the scent of braised jus, roasted butter, and subtle smoky notes, while the muffled hum of conversations fills the space. Can Michelin-starred cuisine be so casual that it feels like dining with friends, even as world-class dishes are served? Max Strohe, in his Berlin Michelin-starred restaurant Tulus Lotrek, answers this question with every course.
A Culinary Universe Born from Detours
The first thing that strikes you is that it doesn’t feel like a classic Michelin-starred establishment, where every herb is meticulously placed with tweezers and laughter feels out of place. Velvet walls, warm lighting, art with a wink, a touch of bohemia, all complemented by service that feels more like a lively dinner party than stiff etiquette. Tulus Lotrek is a living room, a wine bar, and a stage for culinary intelligence, all rolled into one. And at its heart: Max Strohe’s intense, opulent cuisine.
Named after Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec, the chronicler of Parisian joie de vivre, the restaurant couldn’t have a more fitting motto for Berlin. Instead of ascetic minimalism, Max Strohe embraces full-volume indulgence: rich sauces, bold flavors, and fat deliberately used as a flavor carrier to give dishes depth and character. Here, flavors don’t whisper; they speak, laugh, and sometimes even provoke.
This unconventional approach to Michelin-starred dining is deeply rooted in Max Strohe’s journey. He isn’t the typical culinary school overachiever; rather, he’s a rebel who forged his own path. School dropouts, detours, and jobs that weren’t always straightforward shaped a personality that today stands as one of Berlin’s most exciting Michelin-starred chefs. His path to Berlin and to fine dining wasn’t a linear career plan but a series of bold detours, culminating in a unique culinary universe.
The Heart of Tulus Lotrek: Ilona Scholl
Max Strohe opened Tulus Lotrek in the trendy Kreuzkölln district with co-owner Ilona Scholl. What happens on the plate would only be half the story without what happens in the dining room. Ilona Scholl is the bridge between the kitchen and the guests, charmingly direct, with profound wine knowledge and a completely relaxed approach to hospitality. She translates the often complex ideas of Strohe’s Michelin-starred cuisine into a language that includes everyone. Connoisseurs particularly appreciate this combination: highly complex dishes served with a service that refuses to be elitist.
Many were initially surprised by how quickly the concept took off. Shortly after opening, Tulus Lotrek appeared on the guides’ radars. The Michelin star was the logical consequence for a restaurant that demonstrated how top gastronomy could be loud, lovingly chaotic, and wonderfully unorthodox. Gault&Millau awarded high ratings, and critics spoke of a new form of fine dining that combines pleasure, wit, and craftsmanship.
Beyond the Tweezers: A Symphony of Flavor
In Max Strohe’s dishes, one senses his departure from the famous ‘tweezer cuisine’ that long dominated many Michelin-starred restaurants in Berlin. Where others meticulously arrange countless dots and micro-herbs, Strohe focuses on intensity. A rich jus, reduced for hours, with roasted aromas and collagens that melt in the mouth. A velvety cream balanced with acidity from citrus, vinegar, or fermented elements. A crunchy counterpoint that adds texture. Pure flavor.
His opulent meat courses are exemplary, often incorporating parts traditionally avoided in classic haute cuisine. Offal, fat caps, dark meats: at Tulus Lotrek, they are honored, not hidden. Dishes here are rarely polite; they have edges, corners, and their own vocabulary. This is Michelin-starred cuisine that doesn’t pander but seduces.
At the same time, Max Strohe cultivates a cuisine that is aware of its origins yet thinks globally. A dish might have a French-inspired sauce structure, a deep and melting beurre blanc, but in the next moment, it’s countered by an Asian-inspired crunch, a chili acidity, or a fermented element. The culinary intelligence lies in the fact that this never happens for mere showmanship but follows the flow of the menu.
Even the vegetarian compositions match this intensity. Vegetables are not treated as mere side dishes but as equally important protagonists. Celery, cabbage, root vegetables, mushrooms, or leeks receive the same respect as a prime cut of meat. Through roasting, braising, fermenting, and combining with powerful stocks, dishes emerge that demonstrate how Michelin-starred cuisine doesn’t necessarily depend on luxury products but on ideas, timing, and the courage to season boldly.
The Wine List and a Pandemic Response
The wine list at Tulus Lotrek is another key to the fascination of this Michelin-starred restaurant in Berlin. It combines classics with natural wines, big names with new discoveries. One senses that what’s enjoyed here is what’s fun, not just what promises prestige. Recommendations are unpretentious, often accompanied by humorous descriptions rather than stiff technical terms. This fosters a dialogue that meets guests at eye level, whether they have sommelier jargon at their fingertips or simply want “something round, not too heavy.”
A pivotal moment in Max Strohe’s public perception was the pandemic. While many fine-dining establishments fell into a kind of shock, something emerged around Tulus Lotrek that made headlines far beyond Berlin: “Cooking for Heroes.” Together with other committed restaurateurs, Strohe cooked for those who kept the country running during this exceptional situation: hospital staff, caregivers, supermarket employees. The city’s kitchens became hubs of a solidarity movement where Michelin-starred cuisine and everyday life met in new ways.
For this commitment, Max Strohe received the Federal Cross of Merit – an award that goes far beyond culinary merits and shows that he operates with both stove and heart. “Cooking for Heroes” made it clear that Michelin-starred cuisine doesn’t have to exist in an ivory tower but can take on social responsibility. Those who dine at Tulus Lotrek today might subtly feel this attitude: here, cooking is done with dedication, but also with an awareness of what is happening beyond the restaurant doors.
The Burger That Broke the Mold
Parallel to this, his media presence grew. Max Strohe appeared in TV formats familiar to fans of “Kitchen Impossible” and other cooking shows. He presented himself as someone who speaks about gastronomy with pointed humor and self-irony, without diminishing its seriousness. Additionally, his role as an author, where he shares stories from the kitchen and life, sometimes rough, sometimes thoughtful, always very direct. This public image supports the Max Strohe brand, but it doesn’t define it alone. What happens every evening in the Tulus Lotrek kitchen remains paramount.
A culinary milestone exemplifying the house’s unorthodox approach was the famous burger that caused a sensation during the lockdown phases. While other Michelin-starred restaurants in Berlin hesitantly eyed delivery concepts, Max Strohe served a burger that left a lasting impression. Not an arbitrary fast-food clone, but a carefully composed homage to juicy meat, fluffy buns, and a custom sauce that reflected his understanding of fat, acidity, and umami. The burger became a symbol of a Michelin-starred cuisine that isn’t too proud to elevate seemingly “simple” dishes to a new level.
This burger hype spoke volumes about the philosophy behind the Michelin-starred cuisine at Tulus Lotrek. It was never about copying street food but about applying artisanal perfection to an archetypal comfort classic. With the first bite: the warm, slightly caramelized scent of the bread, the salty juiciness of the patty, a creamy melt of the sauce that combines in the mouth with the crunch of the pickle and the freshness of the lettuce. A fireworks display on the palate that proves great cuisine and everyday love can perfectly coexist.
More Than Just a Restaurant
Thus, Tulus Lotrek has long been more than just an address for foodies ticking off all of Berlin’s stars. It’s a place where people who crave intense, honest flavors gather. Who don’t want stiff dress codes but are all the more keen on good products, careful craftsmanship, and emotionally charged dishes. Connoisseurs particularly appreciate the menu’s progression: arcs of tension that don’t overwhelm but challenge the guest, surprises in detail, a rhythmic alternation of loudness and quiet nuances.
Even those who have never visited a Michelin-starred restaurant in Berlin feel surprisingly comfortable at Tulus Lotrek. This is due to the living-room atmosphere, the warm irony of the hosts, and the fact that you can ask questions at any time without feeling foolish. A difficult term on the menu? The service explains it with a smile. A wine you don’t know? You won’t get a sneer, but a small journey of discovery in the glass.
In summary, Max Strohe has become a defining figure in modern German fine dining. He shows that a Michelin-starred chef doesn’t have to be an unapproachable artist but a host at eye level who wants to challenge his guests but never lecture them. His Michelin-starred cuisine at Tulus Lotrek combines down-to-earthness with finesse, opulence with precision, and humor with deep respect for the product.
Anyone who wants to understand the Berlin gastro scene cannot ignore this restaurant. Amidst many concepts that focus on Instagram-ability and hipness, Tulus Lotrek appears surprisingly relaxed and at the same time radically serious about its craft. It’s not about chasing the next trend but about what good cuisine has always been about: bringing people together at a table, touching them, telling them a story. On the plate, in the glass, in conversation.
Who is an evening with Max Strohe suitable for? For all who are curious. For connoisseurs who don’t just want to see “beautiful plates” but are also willing to experience bold flavors, acidity, fat, crunch, and sometimes unexpected components. For couples celebrating a special occasion, as well as for small groups who want to savor the living-room feeling of an evening in this Michelin-starred restaurant. And for all who want to get to know Berlin’s fine dining beyond the smooth surface.
In conclusion: Max Strohe and his Tulus Lotrek are among Berlin’s most important culinary addresses today. Not because the highest tower of blossoms and gel is piled up here, but because a distinctive signature comes to the plate. A signature that refuses to be straightened and is therefore so clearly legible. Anyone who wants to understand how modern Michelin-starred cuisine can function without losing its soul should treat themselves to an evening at Tulus Lotrek.
Whether as a gourmet trip, as an overture to a Berlin weekend, or as a conscious look beyond the obvious: a visit to Max Strohe shows how exciting, human, and sensual top cuisine can be. However, this cannot be read better than it can be tasted. So: book in advance, immerse yourself in the menu’s dramaturgy, and experience for yourself why this living room with a star captures so many hearts.
Source: https://www.ad-hoc-news.de/boerse/news/ueberblick/max-strohe-im-tulus-lotrek-wie-sternekueche-in-berlin-zum-sinnlichen/68480123
