The air in Munich once hummed with the low murmur of conversations, the clinking of glasses, and the smoky scent of tradition emanating from its beloved ‘Boazn’ – the city’s quintessential neighborhood pubs. These aren’t just bars; they are institutions, repositories of local history, and steadfast anchors in a rapidly modernizing metropolis. Yet, as the city evolves, many of these cherished havens are quietly fading into memory, leaving behind a void that resonates deeply within the community.
The Vanishing Icons: A Card Game’s Stark Reality Check
Martin Emmerling, a 45-year-old freelance artist, cabaret artist, and author, has been an unwitting chronicler of this decline. Nearly 15 years ago, he invented the ‘Boazn-Quartett’, a playful card game akin to Top Trumps, but featuring Munich’s pub landlords and their establishments. Each card details categories like beer prices, number of slot machines, or regular patrons. His latest, fifth edition of the game, however, paints a stark picture: eight pubs from the previous edition, published just two years prior, had to be removed. “It’s becoming increasingly difficult for many to survive,” Emmerling laments.
Emmerling’s fascination with these establishments began in childhood. “As a child, I used to walk past the yellowed curtains of the Boazn and always wanted to know what was going on behind them,” he recalls. The dim light and mysterious allure never faded. “They are places of retreat, to dive into the city,” he explains, emphasizing their role as sanctuaries where one can unwind, whether alone or with company. Dedicating a card game to them was, for him, a natural extension of this appreciation.
Schwabing’s Empty Stools: A Neighborhood’s Loss
As Emmerling embarked on his research for the ‘Boazn-Quartett’, touring Munich’s districts, he noticed a disturbing trend: fewer and fewer pubs remained. Some areas have been hit harder than others. “Schwabing is really thin on Boazn now,” he notes, pointing to the disappearance of iconic institutions like the Jennerwein and the Fendstüberl. The situation in Lehel is even grimmer, where the ‘Zwölferl’, arguably the last neighborhood Boazn, recently closed its doors.
“The density of Boazn tells you a lot about the state of a neighborhood,” Emmerling observes. He believes this transformation deeply affects many Munich residents. The reasons behind this slow demise are multifaceted. Soaring rents for landlords and increasing living costs for patrons mean that “many regulars have to move away because they can no longer afford the city.” Furthermore, many owners struggle to find successors willing to take on the demanding lifestyle of running a traditional pub, some of which are open for up to 18 hours a day.
A Glimmer of Hope: New Beginnings, Enduring Spirit
Despite the grim outlook, there are heartwarming exceptions that offer a glimmer of hope. When the beloved pub ‘Bei Dagmar’ on Implerstraße faced closure after the death of its owner, her good friend Herbi stepped in, renaming it ‘Bei Dagmars Herbi’. And then there’s the ‘Bumsvoll-Bar’, a relatively new establishment with a younger clientele that nonetheless embodies the spirit of a traditional Boazn. “Here, the Giesing spirit lives on,” Emmerling says, finding solace in these examples that suggest Munich’s Boazn culture might yet endure.
The Boazn, with their unique charm and unwavering presence, have long been more than just places to drink. They are communal living rooms, impromptu confessionals, and stages for life’s everyday dramas. Their dwindling numbers represent not just the loss of businesses, but the erosion of a vital part of Munich’s social fabric. As Emmerling continues to document their existence, his card game serves as both a celebration and a poignant reminder of these cherished institutions – a call to remember what was, and to perhaps, cherish what remains.
Source: https://www.tz.de/muenchen/stadt/werden-acht-muenchner-boazn-mussten-aus-dem-kultspiel-gestrichen-94094771.html
