The wind whispers secrets through the tall grasses, carrying the scent of wild herbs. Before us, a vast expanse of green stretches to a distant line of dark forest, where sheep graze peacefully. To our left, the royal blue spikes of meadow sage bloom; to our right, the blood-red dots of Carthusian pinks. It’s a scene straight out of the Hungarian Puszta, yet we are in the Mallertshofen Heath, just north of Munich.
A Landscape Forged by Ice and Time
“This is the northern part of the Munich gravel plain, formed by massive meltwater flows from glaciers at the end of the ice ages,” explains Tobias Maier, 59, a diploma biologist and area manager for the Heideflächenverein Münchner Norden (Heathland Association of Northern Munich). The association, founded by surrounding communities and districts, aims to harmonize nature and human interaction.
Maier, who mediates between farmers, hunters, recreational users, and conservation needs, notes the shallow topsoil on the heathlands. “Until the 19th century, the landscape was extensively used, primarily for grazing sheep and cattle,” he recounts. Farmers painstakingly piled up the scarce earth to create ‘Hochäcker’ (raised fields) where grain could grow.
From Farmland to Military Zone and Back Again
The 20th century brought significant changes. Artificial fertilizers and irrigation altered agricultural practices, and the military repurposed the heath as a training ground. Hills were created, trenches dug, and ammunition fired. During World War II, anti-aircraft guns were stationed here, runways were leveled, and dive bombers used the forests for target practice. Allied forces eventually bombed the airfields of the Messerschmitt Me 260, the first jet fighter.
Even after the war, the military remained, with tanks carving deep ruts and holes into the ground. These depressions became so compacted that they formed temporary ponds, providing a habitat for the extremely rare natterjack toad. Several flooded gravel pits also became new homes for these amphibians. The straightening of the Isar River and the construction of the Sylvensteinsee had eliminated the river’s natural floodplains, forcing the natterjack toad to relocate to the heath’s temporary pools.
However, with the end of military maneuvers in 1995, the area was declared a nature reserve. “As tanks and trucks no longer compacted the soil, the water seeped away, and the natterjack toad almost completely disappeared,” Maier laments. To compensate, new ponds with pond liners have since been created, where natterjack toad tadpoles now thrive.
The Ghost Church of Mallertshofen
As we cycle through the heath, the chirping of a tree pipit and the whistle of an oriole accompany us. We arrive at a large clearing where a solitary, 800-year-old parish church stands – the ‘ghost church’ of the vanished village of Mallertshofen. “Plunderings during the Thirty Years’ War, Napoleon’s troops, and long droughts caused the population to dwindle until the last abandoned farm was demolished in 1879,” Maier explains. Three iron gravestones are all that remain of the former cemetery.
From here, it’s a short hop to the Mallertshofen pond, a former gravel pit now boasting azure waters – one of four lakes surrounding the heath. The others are Hollerner See, Echinger See, and Garchinger See, some with restaurants and beer gardens, including the Mühlenpark beer garden in Garching.
Exploring the Heath: A Guide for Visitors
The Mallertshofen Heath is easily accessible by bike via the Isar River and Garching (U-Bahn station), or from the Allianz Arena. The recommended route through the heath to the four gravel pits is well-marked. The Mallertshofen Heath is a nature reserve, meaning visitors can walk and cycle on gravel paths outside the forests. Dogs are allowed on a short leash. However, forests are restricted, and motor vehicles (including e-scooters), drones, camping, picnicking, and fires are prohibited. Horse riders have a designated path. Visitors are asked not to disturb animals or plants.
At information points, maps are available, allowing visitors to collect stamps at various stations within the nature reserve. The tour can also be accessed via the Komoot app.
The journey from Munich can be combined with a visit to the impressive Isar rapids between Oberföhring and Garching. Nymphenburg Palace Park also holds many secrets to discover, and the Aubinger Lohe, with its ‘Teufelsberg’ (Devil’s Mountain), offers another interesting trip on the city’s outskirts.
Tobias Maier, the dedicated area manager, continues his work, ensuring that this unique landscape, with its blend of natural beauty and forgotten history, remains a haven for both wildlife and curious explorers. The Mallertshofen Heath is more than just a patch of land; it’s a living testament to Munich’s diverse past and a vibrant sanctuary for its future.
Source: Own report, interviews with Tobias Maier and local residents, archival materials from the City of Munich.
