Munich’s New Wine Culture: A Return to Roots and a Vision for the Future
Munich, a city globally renowned for its brewing traditions, is quietly witnessing a fascinating revival of a nearly forgotten aspect of its history: winemaking. Christian Dauber, the driving force behind the Münchner Wein Manufaktur and the initiator of the city’s first urban vineyard, is determined to bring this ancient tradition back to life. In collaboration with the Weinbauverein Menzing e.V., Dauber is championing sustainable viticulture, innovative PIWI grape varieties, and a bold vision to make wine an integral part of urban life. In an exclusive interview, the Franconian native discusses his passion for wine, the unique challenges of an urban vineyard, and the evolving wine culture in Munich.
From Beer Capital to Wine City?
For centuries, Munich was not just a beer city; it also had a significant winemaking tradition. Dauber, who grew up in a winemaking family in Franconia, found it astonishing that this chapter of Munich’s history had largely vanished. “Most people associate Munich with beer, and that’s how it should remain. But few know that centuries ago, Munich was also a wine city,” Dauber explains. His personal connection to viticulture, observing the potential in green spaces, led him to transform a long-held idea into a tangible project.
For Dauber, seeing grapes grow in Munich is deeply personal. “To accompany a vine from its first shoot to harvest is something entirely different,” he reflects. “Wine doesn’t begin in the bottle or on the wine list; it begins in the vineyard.” This project, he believes, beautifully intertwines his Franconian heritage with his chosen home in Munich.
The PIWI Revolution: Sustainability at the Core
The choice of grape variety for Munich’s urban vineyard was a deliberate one, prioritizing long-term sustainability. The team opted for Souvignier Gris, a PIWI (Pilzwiderstandsfähige Rebsorten – fungus-resistant grape varieties) variety. “For us, it was clear from the beginning that we wanted to create a project that makes sense in the long term,” Dauber states. “Souvignier Gris convinced us because the variety is robust, requires significantly less plant protection, and can produce very good qualities.” This decision underscores a modern approach to viticulture, moving away from conventional methods that often rely heavily on chemical interventions.
Navigating Urban Challenges: A Community Effort
Establishing a vineyard in a major city like Munich comes with its own set of challenges, from securing permits to managing public perception. “When we went public with the idea of an urban vineyard, many wondered: Can this even work? Does Munich need something like this? Is the effort worth it?” Dauber acknowledges. However, he emphasizes the crucial role of community support. “I am particularly pleased about the many association members and supporters who believed in the project from the beginning. Without this backing, the urban vineyard would not have come into being.” Beyond the usual agricultural concerns, urban winemaking adds layers of organizational and public relations complexities, making the project all the more intriguing.
Sustainability, for Dauber, is more than just a buzzword; it’s a living principle. The urban vineyard is designed not only to produce wine but also to serve as an educational space where people can experience viticulture firsthand. “Many people don’t even know how much work, time, and patience go into a bottle of wine,” Dauber points out. “Once you’ve seen that, you automatically develop a different perspective on food and its production.”
A New Era for Munich’s Wine Culture
Dauber observes a significant shift in Munich’s perception of wine. “When I came to Munich many years ago, wine was often perceived as somewhat formal. You sometimes had the feeling that you had to know a lot or the right terms,” he recounts. Today, he sees a more curious and open audience, eager to enjoy, discover, and exchange ideas. Events like “wein & beats” rooftop parties, street wine festivals, and the new urban vineyard itself are evidence of this evolving culture.
“Munich is developing its very own approach to wine,” Dauber believes. “For me, it’s not just about a few grapevines. It’s about showing that such ideas can also work in the middle of a big city.” The goal is to enrich Munich in the long term, demonstrating that innovative projects can thrive even in unexpected urban environments.
Future Endeavors: Innovation and Exclusivity
The Münchner Wein Manufaktur is not short on new ideas. The recent election of Munich’s first Wine Queen aims to give a face to the city’s burgeoning wine scene. The sixth annual MENZINGA Rooftop Party “wein & beats” is already generating buzz, having become a staple in Munich’s event calendar.
An exciting new venture is the development of a “GG Club” for connoisseurs of “Große Gewächse” (Grand Crus). This exclusive club will offer access to some of Germany’s finest wines, private tastings, limited edition bottles, and unique events not publicly available. Membership will be strictly by invitation, promising “Große Gewächse & große Abende.”
Many of these projects are born from conversations with individuals who share a passion for wine and a willingness to explore new paths. Dauber extends an invitation to like-minded individuals to actively shape Munich’s wine culture by contacting the Weinbauverein Menzing e.V. “There are plenty of new ideas – the crucial thing is the people who help make them a reality,” he concludes.
Source: worlds of food
