Munich’s heart beats around Marienplatz, a vibrant hub that, while familiar to many, still offers surprises for locals and visitors alike. Often perceived as a bustling tourist hotspot, the Old Town reveals a deeper character, rich in history and unexpected delights, once you venture beyond the obvious.
The Marienplatz: A History Etched in Stone and Spirit
For centuries, the Marienplatz, known until October 1854 as Schrannenplatz or simply ‘Markt’ (Market), has been the focal point of Munich. Its renaming was a plea to the patron saint Maria for an end to the devastating cholera epidemic of 1854. This historical tidbit is just one of many that add layers to the city’s narrative.
Did you know that Weinstraße (Wine Street) still bears witness to the 14th-century wine merchants who made Marienplatz the largest wine trading hub in Southern Germany for centuries? These historical threads weave through the cobblestone streets, offering a glimpse into a past that shaped the vibrant present.
Culinary Delights: From Fish to Frankfurter Sausage
The Old Town is a feast for the senses, especially for food lovers. At the edge of Viktualienmarkt, Poseidon is a haven for fish enthusiasts. With daily changing fish sandwiches, including unique options like swordfish, and a secret sauce, it’s a must-visit. Their Bouillabaisse (19.50 Euros) and spaghetti with fresh seafood (19.50 Euros) are also highly recommended.
For those craving something more traditional, finding a truly good Bratwurst in Munich can be a challenge. However, the old Schlemmer-Meyer stand at Viktualienmarkt, now called “Schlemmen am Markt” (Feasting at the Market), offers the ultimate “Bayerische Rauchzipfel” – a coarsely ground, well-seasoned, and gently smoked sausage for 4.50 Euros. And to satisfy a sweet tooth, a “Zwetschgennudel” (plum noodle) from Café Schmalznudel for 3.20 Euros is a classic Munich treat.
Meat lovers should not miss Haxnbauer im Tal, offering hearty Bavarian street food. Their Haxn-Semmel (pork knuckle sandwich with crispy skin, sauerkraut, salad, and sauce) for 6 Euros is a satisfying meal. Other options include Haxn-Leberkässemmel (pork knuckle meatloaf sandwich) for 4.50 Euros and Haxnfetzensemmel (pork knuckle strips sandwich) for 8.50 Euros. Be quick, though, as these popular sandwiches often sell out by evening.
Hidden Sanctuaries: Gardens and Art
Escaping the urban bustle is easy in Munich’s Old Town. The inner courtyard of the Neue Maxburg is a serene spot for a break, offering views of impressive architecture and art, including Josef Henselmann’s Moses fountain. The Fifties elegance of Sep Ruf’s architecture, combined with “art in architecture” pieces like mosaics by Blasius Spreng and Wilhelm Braun, creates a unique atmosphere.
A visit to the Sammlung Goetz branch at Pacellistraße 5, currently showcasing works by Cindy Sherman, is a cultural highlight. After exploring, a coffee and a delicious cake from Café Kreutzkamm in Maxburg are the perfect reward.
For a truly tranquil retreat, the Kabinettsgarten, hidden behind the Residenz, is a beautiful and quiet oasis. This green courtyard, accessible from Marstallplatz next to the Allerheiligen-Hofkirche, was redesigned in 2002 and features a sculpture by Fritz Koenig. With shaded plane trees and a small fountain for cooling off on hot days, it’s a perfect escape from the city’s hustle and bustle.
Rooftop Views and Unique Bars
Public rooftop terraces are rare in Munich, but the Oberpollinger department store at Stachus offers a fantastic option. The restaurant on the fifth floor boasts a wonderful rooftop terrace with stunning views over the Old Town. Here, you can enjoy a wide selection of food, from salads and fresh juices to currywurst and pasta, along with an impressive cake counter. A slice of cake can be as little as 3.95 Euros, and a cappuccino for 4.20 Euros, all while enjoying panoramic views of landmarks like the Künstlerhaus and the Justizpalast.
For those seeking unique bar experiences, the Old Town has plenty to offer beyond the typical tourist spots. Unter Deck at Oberanger 26 is one of the city’s most traditional subculture bars, hosting experimental bands and local DJs. Open from Monday to Saturday, it’s a vibrant spot for late-night entertainment.
Equally iconic is the Tam Tam Treppenbar in the Kammerspiele (Hildegardstraße 1, 3rd floor). From Thursday to Saturday, this colorful bar offers drinks, snacks, and a platform for live bands, open mics, and art happenings, making it a truly off-mainstream experience.
The Apollon Foyers in the State Opera also open their doors every Friday (from 11 AM to 5 PM, starting May 8th) for all to enjoy.
Panoramic Perspectives: The Frauenkirche
While not a hidden gem, a visit to the South Tower of the Frauenkirche offers a truly spectacular change of perspective. Reopened to visitors in 2022, the nearly 100-meter-high tower provides phenomenal views stretching far beyond the city limits. Access is via an elevator and a spiral staircase, though it’s not barrier-free. Open Monday to Saturday from 10 AM to 5 PM, and on Sundays and public holidays from 11:30 AM to 5 PM, tickets cost 7.50 Euros for adults and 5.50 Euros for children and teenagers, with free entry for children up to 6 years old.
Munich’s Old Town is more than just a collection of historical buildings; it’s a living tapestry of stories, flavors, and experiences waiting to be discovered by those willing to look a little closer.
