The air in Munich’s Westend, particularly along the Schwanthalerstraße, is thick with the scent of change. What was once described as a ‘wild’ and less desirable part of the city is now undergoing a careful, yet profound, transformation. Sigi Müller, a keen observer of Munich’s urban landscape, has witnessed this evolution firsthand, noting the blend of old charm and new developments reshaping the district’s identity.
A Street Reimagined: From ‘Döner-macht-schöner’ to Chic Cafés
Müller vividly recalls the Schwanthalerstraße’s past, especially its upper section, which was far from a noble quarter. Over the years, however, the area has changed significantly for the better. What’s remarkable, he points out, is the gentle approach to this revitalization, preserving much of the old, at least in terms of facades, while introducing new life.
A prime example is the building at the corner of Parkstraße and Schwanthalerstraße. Once adorned with old display cases proclaiming “Strümpfe, Bänder, Spitzen” (Stockings, Ribbons, Laces) and bearing the name Hans Mier above the entrance, it now houses a charming café filled with antiques. Across the street, a small Buddha, still sporting a Santa hat long after Christmas, sits in a shop window. The owner, Hamid Qamar, a gallerist and purveyor of privacy films, has lived and worked here since 1989, knowing almost everyone in the neighborhood and cherishing his life in the Westend.
The Blend of Old and New: A Constant State of Flux
Further down the street, the contrast between old and new becomes even more apparent. A modern hotel now stands where the infamous “Döner-macht-schöner” house once was. This dilapidated structure, a blight on the street, has given way to progress. The construction continues, a constant state of flux that has defined the Schwanthalerstraße for decades. “Dark times, bright beer,” reads a sign at the “Zur Festwiese” inn, a sentiment that perhaps offers a temporary solution to the turbulent times, if not the ultimate one.
The “Gasthaus zur Schwalbe,” with its beer garden and bowling alley dating back to 1939, stands as a testament to the district’s enduring history. These establishments, alongside the modern developments, paint a picture of a neighborhood in transition, balancing its heritage with the demands of a growing city.
The Enduring Question: What Remains of the Old Kiez?
Müller ponders the future of Schwanthalerstraße: “What will the street look like when everything is actually finished? Or will it never be? What will remain of the old Kiez, what will the new be like? I’m curious.” This question resonates with many long-time residents who have witnessed the gradual erosion of the district’s original character. The constant construction, the rerouting of traffic, and the ever-changing landscape have become a familiar, if sometimes frustrating, part of daily life.
The transformation, while bringing new vibrancy and economic activity, also sparks debate among the community. Some, like HanneloreH, lament the perceived decline in safety in certain parts of the Schwanthalerstraße, particularly near the train station at night. Others, like tutwaszursache, challenge these generalizations, highlighting the complexities of urban change and the need for nuanced perspectives.
Ultimately, Munich’s Westend, and the Schwanthalerstraße within it, is a living, breathing entity, constantly evolving. It’s a place where memories are made, businesses thrive, and communities adapt. The journey from ‘wild’ to refined is ongoing, a testament to the dynamic nature of urban life and the enduring spirit of its inhabitants.
Source: https://www.abendzeitung-muenchen.de/muenchen/ein-muenchner-viertel-erfindet-sich-neu-frueher-ging-es-hier-wild-zu-art-1114086
