Their light was often the last sight sailors saw when embarking on an uncertain journey, and the first to welcome them home. Hamburg, a city inextricably linked to its bustling port, is home to 13 lighthouses, ten of which remain operational. These towering sentinels, more than mere navigational aids, tell tales of maritime history, local communities, and the evolving relationship between man and the sea.
More Than Just Lights: The Language of Beacons
For those in the know, the term ‘lighthouse’ is almost secondary; it’s the ‘light-fire’ that truly matters, explains Frank Toussaint, a lighthouse expert and chairman of the Seezeichen interest group. “That’s why we don’t say lighthouse keeper, but light-fire keeper.” These light-fires come in various forms: range lights precisely align ships within channels, orientation lights serve as fixed points for seafarers, entrance lights mark the gateway to ports, and leading lights act as traffic signals. “The middle is white, and to the left and right, it’s red and green. If the ship is in the white sector, it knows it’s on the right course. But if the color of the light suddenly turns red or green, you have to check the sea chart to see if you’ve veered too far left or right,” Toussaint elaborates.
While electricity and LED technology have long replaced open flames, Toussaint quips, “You can still burn yourself on a light bulb.”
The Smallest Lighthouse: Dividing the Elbe, Uniting Nature
For a refreshing escape with an authentic Elbe atmosphere, a visit to Hamburg’s smallest lighthouse is a must. This approximately seven-meter-high, green river lighthouse graces the Bunthäuser Spitze, a spit of land in Hamburg’s Wilhelmsburg district. It divides the Norderelbe and Süderelbe and is part of the Heuckenlock nature reserve.
A pleasant stroll leads to the small tower at the tip of the headland. The air is filled with the scent of the forest, birdsong, and the occasional bleating of sheep from the opposite bank. The sounds of nature are only interrupted by the occasional motorboat. Nineteen steps lead to the small observation platform of the tower. For those seeking a more relaxed experience, a wooden bench surrounds the base. The Bunthäuser Spitze was extended multiple times to ensure an even flow of water into the Norderelbe and Süderelbe. The lighthouse, built in 1914, “served as an orientation aid for ships and helped them choose the right course towards the Port of Hamburg,” explains a spokesperson for the Hamburg Port Authority (HPA), responsible for its maintenance.
Since 1977, the light-fire has been out of operation. “Nothing shines there anymore; there are no glass panes at the top either,” Toussaint clarifies. Due to vandalism, the windows in the tower’s peak have been replaced with aluminum plates. “If you light the lamp in there, no one will see it.” To preserve the wooden tower, which has withstood wind and weather at the Bunthäuser Spitze for over 100 years, the focus is now on historically accurate maintenance by the city’s master builders.
Interestingly, in the Hamburg crime series by author Christiane Fux, this peaceful corner of nature transforms into a crime scene: In “Das letzte Geleit” (The Last Escort), the first part of the series, investigator Theo Matthies discovers his first corpse at the Bunthäuser Spitze.
Rissen Lighthouses: A Guiding Duo
When people speak of a lighthouse in Rissen, they usually mean the Wittenbergen lower light, Toussaint explains, “because it’s the most visible.” However, the distinctive red-and-white lattice towers in Rissen actually come in a pair: the almost 42-meter-high Tinsdal upper light and the approximately 30-meter-high Wittenbergen lower light form the Wittenbergen-Tinsdal range light line.
This line is still operational, ensuring ships navigate the Elbe safely. “When you’re ten miles off Helgoland, it doesn’t really matter if you’re a few hundred meters to the left or right. But if you do that on the Elbe, there’s an accident.” This is why there are still so many range lights along the Elbe, Toussaint explains, “because they achieve such good positioning.”
To fulfill their function, range lights typically come in pairs: two towers standing about a kilometer apart, Toussaint explains. “When a ship approaches, it has to see the front one, the lower light, exactly beneath the upper light at the back. Then it’s in the correct position.” The two lighthouses can be reached from Hamburg’s city center by public transport in about an hour and 15 minutes. Situated between the metropolis and the coast, visitors experience an unusual atmosphere – for example, when large container ships pass by the seemingly deserted steel giants or when the sun sets behind them.
At the end of the 19th century, the city decided “to properly illuminate the entire Elbe and therefore built numerous new towers,” Toussaint explains. In the process, many lattice towers were also erected, five of which remain. The range light line is operated by the WSA Elbe-Nordsee, which includes “regular inspections to ensure the functionality as a range light line, as well as to monitor the condition of the structures themselves,” the spokesperson explains.
Neuwerk: Where Light Burns for Visitors, Not Sailors
Hamburg’s oldest lighthouse has long been a true landmark in the Wadden Sea, even if its light has almost faded. The sturdy brick tower on the city’s North Sea island of Neuwerk was built over 700 years ago as a defensive tower to deter pirates. From 1814 to 2014, it served as an orientation light for sailors on the North Sea.
“Then it was dimmed very weakly so that tourists could still enjoy it. Nautically, it has been irrelevant ever since, even if something still shines at the top,” Toussaint explains. In May, extensive renovation work began on the island, funded by the city with around 40 million euros. The focus is on the historically accurate renovation of the historic monument. The history of this special place should “remain tangible for future generations,” said Senator for Culture Carsten Brosda (SPD) at the start of the construction work.
The work is a particular challenge due to the island’s secluded location: materials and machinery must be transported to Neuwerk across the mudflats or by ship. After the restoration of the historic brick facade, the interior will be renewed. This will allow the lighthouse to be filled with life again in the future: from 2028, guests will be able to stay overnight, dine, and celebrate special events like weddings there. The island itself is also to be carefully developed with new housing projects, hotels, and restaurants.
Neuwerk is located about 100 kilometers from Hamburg city center and about 15 kilometers northwest of Cuxhaven. According to the financial authority, approximately 20 people live there. “We don’t know exactly. The number 18 is circulating here, but sometimes it’s also 22,” a spokeswoman for the financial authority told the German Press Agency in May.
Five lattice towers still stand along the Elbe, silent witnesses to a bygone era, yet still playing a vital role in the intricate dance of maritime navigation. Their stories, etched in brick and steel, continue to illuminate Hamburg’s deep connection to the sea.
Source: https://www.tageblatt.de/Nachrichten/Hamburgs-Leuchttuerme-vom-Kleinsten-bis-zum-Aeltesten-760628.html
